Do you remember March 2020? Like many, I was stranded at home due to the pandemic but was supposed to be on vacation with my partner in Belgium and Amsterdam. Almost six years to the day, that dream trip finally became reality. We flew non-stop to Amsterdam from Logan Airport in Boston. We took the Logan Express shuttle out of Framingham and paid to park in their garage. If you’re like me and hate driving around airports trying to figure shit out, it’s a no-brainer.
Amsterdam’s airport has a huge perk (who doesn’t love a huge perk), the train station’s attached. Since it was early, Monday became a travel day to Ghent, Belgium. After being up a full day and then getting fourteen hours of beauty rest, Tuesday we were ready to explore. Ghent is an amazing medieval city with castles, churches and little shops around every corner. While meandering the cutest cobblestone paths with no distinction between sidewalks and streets; dodging cars, trams and bicyclists became a sport.
Wednesday we went to Bruges, a twenty-five minute train ride away. I was greeted by the Welcome Wagon, an old woman yelling Dutch and shoving a floral paisley suitcase into my hands. Honey, I’m not so gay that I’d own and forget my paisley luggage set, thank you. I was searching for an escape when she gave me an eye roll, pushed what I learned was her luggage into my chest, motioned to the broken escalator, indicating it was my job to take her luggage down. No questions allowed. My weak ass had to juggle and twirl this Golden Girls suitcase (half my height and weight) down at least forty steps while a dog ahead thought tripping me with it’s leash might be fun. Really, this is how it ends? At the bottom, my boss collected her belongings and sauntered away, mumbling something that sounded like “Useless Bitch!” instead of “Thank you!”
Bruges is also a medieval city with quaint shops, cozy cafes, and picturesque architecture amongst an aroma of waffles and chocolate. We strolled out of the station using the towers of downtown as beacons, discovering The Markt (Bruges main plaza), Minniewaterpark (Lake Of Love Park) and Have A Roll (a vegan cinnamon roll shop with ten different flavors). The coffee was good but the apple cinnamon was to die for.
After Ghent and Bruges, with small city vibes, I wasn’t ready for Amsterdam. It’s like the New York City of The Netherlands but with scenic canals. People were everywhere. Walking, biking, zipping on scooters, buses loading and unloading, and police removing a passed out drunk from our restaurant. The public transportation is easy, clean and safe but warn of pickpocketing. I wasn’t groped, except leaving Boston by a VERY thorough TSA agent.
When traveling, we usually do what locals do. However, two museums hit our tourist list. Rijksmuseum has three massive floors of mostly classic art. “The Night Watch” is their big draw but it was under renovation, however, it was done live behind glass so visitors could watch. If modern art is more your thing, there’s some on the third floor that people didn’t seem to be aware or as interested in.
In my gay opinion, the only thing better than modern art, is street art. Ghent has Werregarenstraat, known as Graffiti Street. It’s an alley covered in graffiti that’s always changing, more tagging than art, but cool to check out.
However, Amsterdam has the STRAAT Museum (a couple minutes walk from a free ferry at Central Station) which is completely dedicated to street art.
STRAAT is a massive warehouse converted into my favorite art space ever. The floors are uneven and it’s not climate controlled, it feels like you’re outside. The incredible art is displayed floor to ceiling, with something new around every turn, I loved it all. Hours flew but I could’ve spent all day. I wish every city would convert warehouses like this.
Amsterdam’s Red Light District was on my evening bucket list. Hello, neon lights and sex workers, count me in. It’s not nearly as seedy as one would think (or hope) but still fascinating and fun. I loved walking along the neon-glittering canals as folks darted in and out of strip clubs, sex toy and pot shops. All while sex workers tap on store-front windows to draw clients in. To be somewhere so free and uninhibited was magical.
We stayed at two of our all-time favorite hotels now. They were safe, clean, spacious, with firm beds and extremely quiet but unfortunately neither had wash cloths. B & B Hotel Gent Centrum was within walking (or tram ride) distance of the train station and in the middle of everything. Oddly, their soap doubled as shampoo, but when in Rome…or Ghent. The Social Hub Amsterdam City was a bit more out of the way (as in, more reasonable) but only three metro stops from the city center.
I had no problem finding food, since Ghent’s a mecca for vegans. Walking into pastry shops, asking “What’s vegan?” and getting a selection, was heaven. Highlights: Oh!Ma’s loaded fries, Knees To Chin’s carmelized tofu paper rolls are better than they sound, especially with steamed Coco Moochies for dessert, and I convinced myself the O’yo chocolate peanut butter pancakes are healthy and low-cal (Hello, plant-based) in order to avoid guilt. Amsterdam food wasn’t as impressive. We mostly hit a local grocery chain, Albert Heijn. Albert, if you’re looking for a new Vers spokesmodel, I’m obsessed with your strawberry, banana, and apple Vers Geperste Smoothie. I needed something to wash down my Appeltaart Puntens (apple strudel-like wedges) and Stroop Wafels (thin waffle cookies with a caramel-like center that tasted like Snickerdoodles, but better). Our last night, we discovered the best vegan and vegetarian restaurant in Amsterdam, Golden Temple. Their coconut curry is to die for. I forced my partner to stop playing with the restaurant’s adorable cat (who wandered down from upstairs) to try some.
Things I learned this trip: Ubers won’t stop on every street, many public restrooms charge (if you find a free one, use it…unless it’s the street urinals, those are nasty), most restaurants charge for tap water, everybody walks around speaking Dutch but will gladly speak English, and the majority of people are super nice and kind…except when they force you to be their personal bell hop.
PS: I fell in love with Ghent, when my trip’s theme song, was playing at our morning cafe.
PSS: This is me when the cake isn’t vegan!
